Wednesday 20th January 2010
The fire has been relit. motivation and desire have been properly reinstalled. The mind has returned to it's frothing grommet stage.
Let there be Waves. Let there be Enlightenment. Let there be Life.
The change from, trying to work as many hours in a day just to get a few extra dollars, to the enjoyment of knocking off early and allowing myself to be free amongst the waves. The time has come, no more overdrive of the mind, no more stress, no more flu, no more exhaustion.
Hello Joy, I welcome you into my heart, I see you have brought with you Tranquility and Balance. Welcome.
I have been blessed to begin my new life in such spontaneity. As I am walking home from work acknowledging the new found member of the Northern Beaches, Swell, I have an eager spring in my step. I know that this next experience will be one to remember. We can only be grateful that Swell has made a visit to our shores. We all know he usually doesn't intend to stay long and sometimes he comes when our banks are not ready. Waste of time really. And time in money if your employed casually. But forget work, we're past that now.
So I'm walking home, ringing around to see which beach is accommodating our friend the best.
North-east wind. Southerly swell. 16:00 ferry. Box Head. Bring nothing.
Jump on the ferry, no looking back, towards the heads we go; lines of swell, invigorating sea spray, 'This area is subject to sea spray take care of valuables,' (lucky we're in boardies) shrieks of joy, breathe-holding smiles, saturated grannies loving the ride, young children exaggerating the boat's flowing movement, surfing up and down, over each wave.
The channel seems narrower as the tide has dropped and we come close to the large pack of surfers scrambling for waves on the outside peak.
We disembark at Wagstaff Wharf and are greeted by a friend on his jetski to take us to the break. Legend! Saved us from the long bush walk over the hill. We were dropped in the middle of it all, everyone was there, and all for the same reason.
The water was alive. The vibe was intense. The waves were incredible.
This beautiful creation of a wave had brought together multitudes of eager surfers; a combination of Cenny Coast crew and Sydney folk, fighting it out to get the biggest and the best waves of the day.
Breathing deeply, no fear, no sense of intimidation, no nerves, only adrenalin. Something is different, no judgement in mind only enjoyment. I'm surfing for me, because it is me, and I love it.
The waves that day have been highlighted in my mind and labelled the new me.
The people we're there, the waves delivered, all that was left to wonder was how were we to get home?
