adventures of a nomadic surfer
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Brotherly Inquisition
Speaking on skype with my younger brother always involves fun and interesting queries.
"I bet their barbecues aren't as good as Australian ones!""What do they put on there? Frogs and snails?"
"Do they have McDonalds over there? ... But I bet they don't have a whopper burger!"
We love the "how many fingers am I holding up" game, web cameras are always deceiving!
He then asks, "how many hairs are on my head? ... go on count them!"
"Are there frogs in the surf?"
"So have you found Mr Right yet?"
He has also promised that when he comes to France next year he will be wearing a frog costume and wants me to chase him down the street screaming in French 'Stop! my dinner!!'
The list goes on, and so do the laughs...
Sunday, August 29, 2010
United States of America
After conquering 13 flights over the course of 11 weeks I had the intension of replanting the soles of my feet permanently on the ground for a few months. I was going well, 5 weeks had passed and even though within that time I had crossed the Spanish border and gone up and down the coast I had stuck to transportation with out wings. It wasn’t until 2 weeks ago when I was generously asked to gear myself for a destination I hadn’t even thought this year’s itinerary could include.
So here I am on my way to Santa Cruz, 7am start, headed to my “local” airport, Biarritz, flight to Paris Orly, bus transfer across the city to Charles de Gaulle, a long 11 and a half hour flight to Los Angeles then another to San José. So much for reconnecting successfully with the soil for an extended period of time.
Did this all come about because I packed an Aus-US power adapter? Was it that one unnecessary item in my bag that caused a spark of chance? Returning to the Caribbean was a possibility, but to the actual United States of America, truly didn’t think I’d get there this year.
27th August Santa Cruz 4 days. San Francisco 1 or 2. Drive down the coast, a few. Los Angeles, chez Adelaide, a few. 12 days of living the American way!
8th September 21:15 LAX - 16:45 9th September Paris CDG. 20:05 Paris Orly - 21:20 Biarritz. 22:00 Home in Capbreton. 23:00 Dick’s Sand Bar with a mojito in hand!
Monday, August 23, 2010
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Monday, August 9, 2010
ORYX - Qatar Inflight Magazine - OMAN
To read the article via the virtual Oryx magazine click here and go to page 62
otherwise click here to see the article on the Oryx website
otherwise click here to see the article on the Oryx website
Saturday, August 7, 2010
First Love Last Love Day 17th July
Watergate Bay produced a perfect setting for what was going to be a great day! Light offshore breeze, 1-2ft swell, sunny weather, we couldn't have asked for anything better. Over the coarse of the day 40 eager girls came to the O'neill Surf Academy with hopes of learning the basics, receiving some tips from the pros and testing their skills. Each girl was given a wetsuit and a soft surfboard and as a group taught the fundamental steps of surfing.
The interaction between the pros and the beginners was only the initiation of O'neill's new "girls only" surfing community website www.oneillfirstlovelastlove.com where O'neill's female team riders are able to give some helpful tips to its members, share their interesting experiences and keep everyone informed of their travels to exciting surfing locations.
It was lucky for the girls who attended the First Love Last Love day, not only did they receive a goody bag but they are now able to put a face to a name and build on the personal friendships made. I know that of the pros who helped out, Tassy Swallow, Nicole Morgan, Grace Davies and myself we are all looking forward to keeping in contact with the girls we met at Watergate Bay and also anticipate meeting more girls online from all over the UK who are interested in the sport we love.
For those of the girls who were experiencing surfing for the first time, I am sure that it won't be their last. Surfing creates a beautiful sense of enjoyment which like love, is addictive.
First.Love.Last.Love.
O'neill Surf Academy, Watergate Bay
Sunset Newquay 16th July
A beautiful day at Newquay
Trying to avoid the masses in Hossegor!
On the quest of searching for tranquility and a solitary experience, like a recluse avoiding the summer bustle, we discovered that it is impossible to escape civilisation. However we had successfully minimised visual interaction with others. Instead of struggling to find a car spot and then a spare grain of sand to place our towels, we walked through the typically Landais trees, admired it's natural existence, perambulated over the untouched dune to a vast space of serenity. Unfortunately those who, like us, had set off to find peace and quiet were those who enjoyed basking in the sun without creating tan lines, ie completely naked! So, so typically french!!
Returning to this serene beach and its well kept forrest is something I would like to do in the near future!
Monday, August 2, 2010
La Fête de Bayonne
Dans notre cher petit Bayonne
Il est une peña
La peña baiona
Ils portent fièrement partout
leur foulard bleu et blanc
C'est la peña
Qui crie sa joie
Sur cet air là…
Allez allez
Les bleus et blancs
De l'Aviron Bayonnais
C'est la peña
C'est la peña baiona
On est tous là
Allez les gars
Encore une fois…
La Fête de Bayonne from Raine Jackson on Vimeo.
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